This is the story of a poor man’s dish that became Marseille’s most celebrated specialty. Bouillabaisse was originally prepared using all the small unsold fish from the fishermen: scorpionfish, conger eels, weever fish, gurnards… Most of the time, these were rockfish with little demand, difficult to sell compared to the highly prized sea bream, sea bass, tuna, or swordfish.
Its name comes from its cooking method: the fish are cooked directly in the broth, the fish soup. And as soon as it begins to boil, you must lower the heat to avoid damaging the fish. Thus, as soon as “it boils, you lower”, Bouillabaisse was born.
The real Marseille bouillabaisse
Today, Bouillabaisse must meet certain criteria to be considered authentic, especially those defined by the Bouillabaisse Charter created in 1980. Indeed, some less scrupulous restaurateurs may offer a low-cost bouillabaisse by using pre-made fish soup into which they add one or two fresh fish.
The authentic bouillabaisse is served in two courses: first, the broth — a rich, aromatic soup made from small fresh fish too tiny to be eaten whole. It is enjoyed with rouille, a golden, flavorful sauce similar to mayonnaise but blended with garlic and saffron.
The second course is the main dish: whole fish, poached to perfection in that same broth.
Originally, these were “modest” fish such as weever fish, conger eel, scorpionfish, or gurnards. Today, however, the dish may also feature noble species like John Dory, monkfish, and occasionally lobster or slipper lobster. “Favouilles,” small crabs added mainly for flavor, enrich the broth’s depth even though they offer little meat.
At least four different fish must be served for a bouillabaisse to be considered authentic. This is why the dish is offered for a minimum of two people. This variety also explains its price: for under €50–60, it is nearly impossible to enjoy a true bouillabaisse prepared according to the official recipe using fresh fish.
Traditionally, bouillabaisse comes with potatoes cooked directly in the broth. Guests may add grated cheese to the soup and spread rouille on croutons soaked in the flavorful broth.
Where to enjoy an exceptional bouillabaisse in Marseille?
Le Grand Bar des Goudes
Le chef Benjamin Mathieu et sa bouillabaisse
A legendary address and century-old institution, Le Grand Bar des Goudes sits at the entrance of the Calanques National Park, in the charming fishing village of Les Goudes.
Chef Benjamin Mathieu — born in Marseille — sources his fish directly from local fishermen. Here, bouillabaisse is the restaurant’s signature dish, available year-round upon reservation. It is crafted from five varieties of rockfish, accompanied by favouilles, following the traditional Marseille recipe.
The dish must be ordered in advance and for at least two guests. At €65 per person, it is arguably the best value bouillabaisse in the city.
For a simpler alternative, the restaurant also serves “bourride,” a distant cousin of bouillabaisse, featuring fish served in broth and requiring no advance booking.
€65/person
Chez Michel
Chez Michel is another historic Marseille institution, located opposite Catalans Beach in the 7th district. Its nostalgic decor and traditional service transport guests straight back to the 1960s, a timeless setting preserved by its emblematic chef, Paul Visciano. The restaurant was founded in 1946 by his grandfather, and its bouillabaisse recipe has been discreetly passed down through generations.
€80/person
https://www.restaurant-michel-13.fr/
Le Miramar
La bouillabaisse du Miramar © Le Miramar
Ideally located on Marseille’s Old Port, Le Miramar is one of the founding members of the Bouillabaisse Charter. Today, it is run by Christian Buffa. The restaurant also offers cooking classes for those wishing to master the art of preparing an authentic bouillabaisse.
€80/person
https://lemiramar.fr/
Le Rhul
Perched along the Corniche, Le Rhul boasts a panoramic view over the bay and the islands. For over 50 years, this establishment has earned its prestige with a menu centered around seafood, particularly bouillabaisse. The traditional recipe is always offered, along with a luxurious lobster variation. While reservations are essential, there is no need to order the bouillabaisse in advance — it is one of the restaurant’s signature dishes and can even be ordered for one person.
€72/person – lobster bouillabaisse €83/person
https://www.hotel-restaurant-le-rhul.com/
La Calanque Bleue (Sausset-les-Pins)
Leaving Marseille and heading to the Côte Bleue, we find this establishment also specialized in Bouillabaisse. Chef Yvan Vahanian sources his fish from local fishermen. He also organizes the French Bouillabaisse Championship, bringing together top chefs.
€79.90/person, reservation 72 hours in advance
https://www.restaurant-la-calanque-bleue.com/
Le Chalut (Martigues)
A bit further along the Côte Bleue, head toward Martigues and the hamlet of Carro for a no-fuss restaurant where the dishes achieve unanimous praise, with authentic and generous cuisine. Chef Nathalie Régis does not have to go far to stock up on ingredients. Her restaurant is just a few dozen meters from the fishermen of Carro. Bouillabaisse must be ordered 48 hours in advance.
€70/person
https://www.le-chalut-restaurant-martigues.com/